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Posted by FieldsPerformance on 11/19/2007, 11:31 am, in reply to "Re: Engine rebuild"
User logged in as: Stephen
24.159.28.201
The blocks very rarely crack. Like Ra said, have the head magnafluxed even if no cracks are visible. Make sure they completely disassemble the head before magnafluxing. Cracks can hide under valves, from the seat into the port (i found this out the hard way after porting and polishing both sides to #3 cylinder, then found a crack!) The machine shop did not take the valves out when magnafluxing.
Finding a good machinist or machine shop is the first critical step. They should sit down with you and answer all questions. Ask if they can give you a print out on clearances they machine the parts to. I always double check ANY machine shops work. I mic and measure everything from rod and main clearances, crank end play, piston to cylinder wall clearance, ring end gap, and valve stem to guide clearances. On racing engines there's alot more to check, but it's not neccessary in your case.
You want to check the trueness of the block and head mating surfaces. Spend the extra $100 - $120 on getting these surfaces trued if there's any doubt. It will pay off in the long run. Another thing you may want to have checked, is the balance of the rotating assembly. Crank, flywheel, rods and pistons, can all be balanced. Most of the time they are fairly close from the factory, but i like them to be right on. A balanced engine not only produces more power, it reduces wear and tear and also improves gas mileage to some extent.
If you bore the engine, make sure the machine shop final hones the cylinders with a 400 grit honing stone. Total seal rings highly recommends this finish for proper ring seating.
Other than that, i think you'll find building a chevette engine is quite simple. Once you "tear" into one of these engines, alot are surprise how well they are actually designed.
Good luck, let us know if you have any other questions!
Stephen Fields
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